A lot has transpired since we last posted. We refreshed Jethro’s oil and filter and air cleaner. Then we made an 1700 mile round trip to see Willie and Pete and portions of the eclipse in Highland Kansas.
After perusing the “always reliable” Internet for predictions and details about the solar eclipse, we made the following decisions:
- Going north to Casper, WY yielded no place to stay and likely madhouse traffic.
- Staying in Steamboat would likely bypass a great, historic opportunity.
- Traveling to Pete & Willie’s in Kansas would provide both historic opportunities as well as fun times with great friends, We chose this option!
First, I had a long talk with Bart Beemer and he agreed that Jethro would be the better option for an all-nighter from Steamboat almost to St. Jo Missouri. He conceded that weather forecasts were iffy and that should we make the trip safely, the prospects for further good times together were far more likely.
So…somewhere between 7:45 and 8:00pm on Friday night we headed out over Rabbit Ears Pass and pointed Jethro towards Highway 36 from Colorado all the way across Kansas. We had no idea what other sun-seekers might have up their sleeves, but this seemed like a good if not sneaky, plan.
Nice Colorado Sunset as we crossed Rabbit Ears Pass Friday night
Jethro has some badass LED headlamps and he lit up the nightime like it was day. While I70 to Denver is never pleasant, we found ourselves past Denver in Bennet Colorado by midnight. From there we pulled onto Hwy 36. Believe it or not…we encountered only three (3) other motorists for almost 200 miles during the next 3 1/2 hours. Highway 36 was deserted! Traffic was light all the way to Highland when we arrived slightly before noon. That is not to say that all roads were not amply littered with foreboding, lighted digital warnings about the perils of Highway travel during such an historic event. Small Kansas towns were “in the spirit” and even protected their treasured town statues from the perilous affects of the upcoming event! Fortunately, we beat the odds and survived the 16-hour journey.
Local Spirit in Kansas
It was like “old home week” catching up with P&W while we toured her home town and generally savored the small-town Kansas lifestyle. Great times! Come Monday (Eclipse Day) the weather forecasts were far more than uncooperative. In fact, it was a clousy day! That, however, did not dampen our spirits. We were able to catch periodic glimpses of varying stages of the eclipse as the cloud cover cooperated. We enjoyed the “cookie-bite” stages and almost made it to the “totality.” After viewing the tiniest sliver of the sun, the clouds rolled back in while the light changed to darkness and the temps dropped.
Here’s a snap while things were looking up!
The crew (sans Willie also photographing).
Photograph courtesy of Willie and his "Big Equipment."
After the excitement had dwindled and we were superbly fed by our hosts, Lizzy and I saddled up ole Jethro and headed east. I mean...since there were only about 150 people total in Highland...how bad could traffic be - right?!
Jethro...resting up for our return from Highland Headquarters
Much to our chagrin and after only about 6-8 miles of driving on Hwy 36, things came to a screeching halt. I mean...where in the hell did all these people come from??!! Traffic was literally moving between 4-8 MPH. So...I did what any reasonable American motorist would do...I turned around. Hey! We first considered all the options and our current situation: Limited water, no food, 3/4 tank of gasoline, and no end in sight. Think about it...what if all these folks reached the next town and lined up at the gas pump? How long could this madness go on??
So...we decided to return to P&W's and wait it out. That meant foregoing our accommodations in Phillipsburg KS and likely driving back along another 800-mile marathon route. Instead, we arrived back in Hiawatha Kansas where I decided I'd gas-up "just in case," dontchasee? That turned out to be a glorious decision. While pumping, a local asked, "You guys here for the eclipse?"
"Yessir!"
"Which way you headed?"
"West to Colorado."
"OOOH-WEE!! That's bumper to bumper all the way to I75. I just came from there. It clears out after that and the traffic becomes all east-bound."
GREAT NEWS! That means that if I can just find a way past I-75...we're home free! "Hey, Jethro! How are you feeling about getting your feet dirty?"
So we climbed on the Kansas gravel and dirt roads that service the millions upon millions of acres of corn fields and headed east in a huge cloud of gravel dust and corn stalks. Sure nuff, just as we hit I75, everyone was turning either north or south; no one was continuing either east or west beyond that junction. YEE-HA! (Sorry Sliz).
We pulled into Phillipsburg, KS with the sun still a shining! After a good nights rest, we were up and at'em by 7am and heading back to the boat. Since it was only about 450 miles, we took a detour through Rocky Mountain NP and revisited the Old Fall River Road just for Jethro. He loved every mile and minute. Interestingly, now that everyone on the planet has either a Jeep or some other SUV, even the remote roads like Old Fall River are crowded. That, alone, was a huge disappointment. Before long, there won't be anyplace left to escape the madding crowd.
Anyhow...it's great to be back in "the Boat." It's hard to believe that "Liz 'n Len's Excellent Adventure" is drawing to a close. Fortunately, we still have plans to ride the Alpine Loop near Ouray and Silverton en route home. And, we plan to take Richard's perennial advice and spend a night in Cuchara as well. What an amazing spring and summer it has been! So glad you could join us!
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