Day 128 - Moose Mecca

Funny how things work out sometimes. I can't tell you how many time Lizzy and I have purposefully foraged for meese. We've traveled to Walden, specifically, too may times to count. Then...as though it was just our time in the bucket, Paul and Rosie call for a last lunch visit in Walden. We talked last night about how early we wanted to begin our journey because Walden is...well...meese haven. We agreed that we'd rise early and spend the morning in the Arapaho Wildlife Refuge and meet P&R at noon thereafter.

At 5 minutes to five I awoke and whispered to Lizzy, "You awake?"
"Huh?"
"Wanna go early or just wait and rendezvous for lunch?"
"Let's just do lunch."
"OK...snore!!"

So...at 8:30AM we left the Boat, casually stopped by Starbucks (see...I told you Steamboat was the greatest) and slowly made our way over Rabbit Ears Pass en route to Walden. At gravel CR-34 we turned east and headed cross-country toward Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge.

Just off Hwy 125 a little north of Rand Colorado. Put it on your bucket list!

We crested the gravel hill at the entrance and made a right turn onto Moose Goose Trail. We had gone no further than 300 yards when I looked left and saw Marvin Moose lying in the grass not 40 yards away. Whoa!! How cool is that??

At first Marvin ignored me thinking I was just another dumb tourist. Ha!

Then he looked over as if to say..."Scram, buddy, can't you see I'm trying to get some rest here?"

Next thing you know I've got the window down and my pathetic replica of Wildlife Willie's "Big One" pointed out the window directly at Marvin. He was like..."Enough is enough!"" and stood up as if to say, "See, I'm bigger than you...get the hell outta here!!"

I think Marvin Moose is trying to tell me something

He's very persuasive...he's got my attention!

The last thing we wanted to do was get into an argument with a moose. So...we dropped ole Jethro into drive and slowly crept along the gravel hoping to find another cooperative photo subject. Bingo! It's Melvin Moose, Marvin's big brother!

Can you say...chill?

Melvin is flicking a few flies. He's a real dude!!

Well, about that time we were spotted by some other free-loading, freelance, photo freaks. I swear, no matter where you go and at what expense, there's always someone else there ready to hog your space. This planet is just becoming entirely too small. 

Oh well...we courteously yielded our box seats to the newcomers and even paused to roll down the window and talk wildlife-talk as though we were park rangers. Then we did an about face and went back to check on Marvin.

Marvin has little patience.

Marvin has had it...he's on the move.

Well...I must say...for a late morning chance happening, this one ranks way up there. It's like the frog says, "Time's fun when your'e havin' flies!" And boy, were we havin' flies!! When I think of how many other times we've planned...and strategized... and plotted to be at just the right place at just the right time. But, that just goes to show you, "If at first you do not fricassee, then fry and fry a hen!"

All the while we are listening to a 150-hour history book all about the Civil War. I'm fascinated about how folks could share seats in the senate one day, and look at each other down a musket barrel the next. So...we paused for another chapter or two while we waited for the 12 0'clock rendezvous with Paul and Rosie. We enjoyed a great lunch and said our adieux until...in Boerne later this year, perhaps.

On the way home, we forewent the main highway and climbed back on the gravel. Here's why:

Whodathunk that when I was playing football in high school that I'd become a sucker for beauty?

For us...it just doesn't get any better.

As we've said many times before...we're so glad that you've chosen to ride along with us. It's much more fun when you can share your experiences with others. Unfortunately, we'll be leaving the "Boat" on Sunday. But, we've got some special things planned for the ride home. Until then...let us hear from you!  We look forward to seeing many of you once we return to Big-D!

Day - 127 Movin' and Shakin'

A lot has transpired since we last posted. We refreshed Jethro’s oil and filter and air cleaner. Then we made an 1700 mile round trip to see Willie and Pete and portions of the eclipse in Highland Kansas.

After perusing the “always reliable” Internet for predictions and details about the solar eclipse, we made the following decisions:

• Going north to Casper, WY yielded no place to stay and likely madhouse traffic.
• Staying in Steamboat would likely bypass a great, historic opportunity.
• Traveling to Pete & Willie’s in Kansas would provide both historic opportunities as well as fun times with great friends, We chose this option!

First, I had a long talk with Bart Beemer and he agreed that Jethro would be the better option for an all-nighter from Steamboat almost to St. Jo Missouri. He conceded that weather forecasts were iffy and that should we make the trip safely, the prospects for further good times together were far more likely.

So…somewhere between 7:45 and 8:00pm on Friday night we headed out over Rabbit Ears Pass and pointed Jethro towards Highway 36 from Colorado all the way across Kansas. We had no idea what other sun-seekers might have up their sleeves, but this seemed like a good if not sneaky, plan. 

Nice Colorado Sunset as we crossed Rabbit Ears Pass Friday night

Jethro has some badass LED headlamps and he lit up the nightime like it was day. While I70 to Denver is never pleasant, we found ourselves past Denver in Bennet Colorado by midnight. From there we pulled onto Hwy 36. Believe it or not…we encountered only three (3) other motorists for almost 200 miles during the next 3 1/2 hours. Highway 36 was deserted! Traffic was light all the way to Highland when we arrived slightly before noon. That is not to say that all roads were not amply littered with foreboding, lighted digital warnings about the perils of Highway travel during such an historic event. Small Kansas towns were “in the spirit” and even protected their treasured town statues from the perilous affects of the upcoming event! Fortunately, we beat the odds and survived the 16-hour journey.

Local Spirit in Kansas

It was like “old home week” catching up with P&W while we toured her home town and generally savored the small-town Kansas lifestyle. Great times! Come Monday (Eclipse Day) the weather forecasts were far more than uncooperative. In fact, it was a clousy day! That, however, did not dampen our spirits. We were able to catch periodic glimpses of varying stages of the eclipse as the cloud cover cooperated. We enjoyed the “cookie-bite” stages and almost made it to the “totality.” After viewing the tiniest sliver of the sun, the clouds rolled back in while the light changed to darkness and the temps dropped.

Here’s a snap while things were looking up! 

The crew (sans Willie also photographing).

Photograph courtesy of Willie and his "Big Equipment."

After the excitement had dwindled and we were superbly fed by our hosts, Lizzy and I saddled up ole Jethro and headed east. I mean...since there were only about 150 people total in Highland...how bad could traffic be - right?!

Jethro...resting up for our return from Highland Headquarters

Much to our chagrin and after only about 6-8 miles of driving on Hwy 36, things came to a screeching halt. I mean...where in the hell did all these people come from??!! Traffic was literally moving between 4-8 MPH. So...I did what any reasonable American motorist would do...I turned around. Hey! We first considered all the options and our current situation: Limited water, no food, 3/4 tank of gasoline, and no end in sight. Think about it...what if all these folks reached the next town and lined up at the gas pump? How long could this madness go on??

So...we decided to return to P&W's and wait it out. That meant foregoing our accommodations in Phillipsburg KS and likely driving back along another 800-mile marathon route. Instead, we arrived back in Hiawatha Kansas where I decided I'd gas-up "just in case," dontchasee? That turned out to be a glorious decision. While pumping, a local asked, "You guys here for the eclipse?"  

"Yessir!" 

"Which way you headed?"

"West to Colorado."

"OOOH-WEE!! That's bumper to bumper all the way to I75. I just came from there. It clears out after that and the traffic becomes all east-bound."

GREAT NEWS! That means that if I can just find a way past I-75...we're home free! "Hey, Jethro! How are you feeling about getting your feet dirty?"

So we climbed on the Kansas gravel and dirt roads that service the millions upon millions of acres of corn fields and headed east in a huge cloud of gravel dust and corn stalks. Sure nuff, just as we hit I75, everyone was turning either north or south; no one was continuing either east or west beyond that junction. YEE-HA! (Sorry Sliz).

We pulled into Phillipsburg, KS with the sun still a shining! After a good nights rest, we were up and at'em by 7am and heading back to the boat. Since it was only about 450 miles, we took a detour through Rocky Mountain NP and revisited the Old Fall River Road just for Jethro. He loved every mile and minute. Interestingly, now that everyone on the planet has either a Jeep or some other SUV, even the remote roads like Old Fall River are crowded. That, alone, was a huge disappointment. Before long, there won't be anyplace left to escape the madding crowd.

Anyhow...it's great to be back in "the Boat." It's hard to believe that "Liz 'n Len's Excellent Adventure" is drawing to a close. Fortunately, we still have plans to ride the Alpine Loop near Ouray and Silverton en route home. And, we plan to take Richard's perennial advice and spend a night in Cuchara as well. What an amazing spring and summer it has been! So glad you could join us!

Day 121 - Mending Fences

This morning I awoke to find the following hand-written message laying on my pillow next to my head. I’ve transcribed it hereafter for the benefit of sharing its contents. It read as follows:

Dear Lenny:

The following is submitted for your perusal with the utmost respect I can muster. Please treat it with the same.

I have served you faithfully for four (4) years and almost 60 thousand miles. During that time I have never failed you, required repair, broken down or left you stranded. I am eternally appreciative of the time you broke my fall with you leg and lay patiently underneath me (protecting me from the mud and debris) for over one (1) hour until assistance could reach us. Together we have:

• Forged the Fall River Road
• Discovered Denali
• Cavorted with Camels in Kentucky
• Bested the Big Bend
• Conquered California
• Savored Savannah
• Outshone the Outer Banks
• Accelerated through Arkansas
• Collaborated in Colorado

Alas, now that you’re sporting your new Hippie hairdo and have joined forces with Jethro Jeep, I find myself nostalgic and neglected. I’ve suffered the indignity of wearing street tires while my brothers don Doc Martin All -terrain treads. I’ve treated you to Porsche performance and  eco-friendly economy. Do you not realize those proudly evolving into my genus and species were born with a wild and barbaric spirit. We are not to be isolated and ignored. We shun garage incarceration and occasional “rides to eat!” We evolved to roam free and eat the open road for our daily sustenance.

For you alone…I unselfishly climbed into the confined coffin carelessly constructed by U-Haul and allowed myself to be shamefully towed by your new mindless, maniacal muse, Jethro Jeep. No sooner than you had arrived in Cool, Colorful Colorado, you Wrapped me up and blind-folded me to the beauty we had once together shared. I was gullible enough to believe that you had come to your senses when you unwrapped me and together we rode off to the Cache Le Poudre, Rist Canyon and parts beyond. I gave you my all!  And what did you do? You returned me to solitary confinement and jilted me once again for Jethro the Jerk. Oh, yes…I know you plan to ride me home, but…that’s partially because you’re too cheap to rent another trailer and further humiliate me. 

LOOK…I’m not one to mince words…so here’s the bottom line. As nicely as I can put it…”RIDE MY ASS OR SELL IT TO SOMEONE WHO WILL!!!”

Warmest possible regards,

Black Bart Beemer

I was shocked and in total disbelief. I mean, the thought that a BMW GS Adventure could compose a letter was enough (let alone sneak into my bedroom under the cover of darkness), but the sentiment!!! I pulled on a pair of skivvies and raced into the parking lot. I ripped off the callous cover and ran to the front of the bike. There, I realized it was all much too true. Before my eyes I saw a huge tear rolling down Bart’s Halogen headlamp. I raced to his side and threw my arms around his massive, trembling tank. He flinched as though he’d been accosted by a stranger. I did my best to comfort him. I assured him I’d do anything to make amends. Slowly, reluctantly, he softened and began to reluctantly accept my advances.

After much groveling and soul-searching we came to an arrangement. Today, Lizzy and I climbed aboard Bart and rode him high into the Aspen meadows between Phippsburg and Meeker. You should have seen the smile on his oil cooler. He pranced and pawed his way through over 50 miles of dirt and rocks. He stealthily stalked though miles of freshly strewn gravel. He never wavered once. Bart and I are BFFs. As we climbed down from the treacherous mountain maneuverings, I opened him up on the highway heading home! I could swear his mane was flapping in the breeze.

As a further gesture of my good will, we’ve agreed with Bart that he, alone will carry Lizzy and I on a 1600 mile round-trip excursion to Highland Kansas so he can watch the eclipse. At no small expense, we’ve bought him his own Eclipse Goggles!!!

Sorry, Jethro…there are some bonds that are two strong to be broken. And Bart the Beemer…yes!…we still love you. You are our BAT MOBILE!! 

We were so into the moments of the day, we almost forgot we had a camera.

Black Bart the Beemer RULES!!

An almost forgotten moment...

Black Bart's Domain

Bart's a Beast!!

Happy Hooves...ride on Bart!

Day 119 - Paonia to Crested Butte via CR-12

We're loving life high in the mountains off the beaten path. The last two times we were in Steamboat, we talked about the road from Paonia to Crested Butte. Of course, we've always been on the bike. While we're not totally intimidated by dirt, rocks and gravel, we're not crazy about having a trip cut short because of a freak miscalculation. Not the case with Jethro Jeep. He's raring to go anywhere and anytime. So off we went.

We have stayed in the Redwood Arms in Paonia a couple of times before. It's nice and cozy and Paonia is a cool little laid-back Colorado town. We rode out this morning around 6:30 and watched the sun come up along CR-12. It's a shortcut between Paonia and Crested Butte. Life is mighty-fine at 9000 feet among the Aspens. Lotsa critters as well. I won't bore you with a lot of gibberish...just enjoy a few snaps if you please.

Just leaving Paonia - heading east early morning

Above 9000 feet - surprising number of farms and ranches up here in the wilderness.

More gorgeous Aspens

Silhouettes

Handsome guy

Here...check out my rack!

Doe and fawn

In need of grooming

Heron

Lotsa beauty!!

Day 118 - Riding Rim Rocker and Black Canyon of Gunnison

Hey folks! If you've never been to Gateway Colorado, you've missed one of the most gorgeous spots on the planet. Gateway is located at almost precisely 9:00 if Colorado was a clock. A drop dead gorgeous road, Highway 141 leads you there from Grand Junction. It also leads you out and south towards Naturita and generally in the direction of Telluride. It almost don't get any better...but wait!...it does...

Now that we have Jeep fever (it may be terminal) we've been searching (and finding) all kinds of ways to escape the madding crowds and head for higher ground. The discovery of Rim Rocker Trail is, to date, our boldest adventure via 4wd. Rim Rocker is a predominantly dirt, gravel, mud and rock passage from Moab Utah to Montrose Colorado. That's about 160 miles of dirt if you're counting. No! We didn't do the entire trail. We jumped on just south of Gateway on CR-Q12.

So here's the deal. Imagine you're in the most beautiful red rock canyon on earth and just driving along soaking in the gorgeous peaks. Well...how's about climbing to the top of those peaks and looking down into the canyons below. It's kinda like this...

Gotta click the pics for bigger more breathtaking vistas!!

This spot was by no means technical. We didn't stop for photos during the hairy stuff.

Pretty nice view from the top...huh?

If you've ever traveled Hwy 141...I promise this is even better!

Thar she is, folks...Hwy 141 north to Gateway.

Pretty rugged terrain. Not the place for a flat tire or getting stuck in the mud.

We climbed down from the top of the red rocks in Nucla (near Naturita). Neither offer much to tourists.

When in Nucla...do as the Nuclasites do. Not many other choices.

Now the Rim Rocker Trail from Moab Utah to Montrose is about 160 miles. We only rode 80 of it. Next time we gotta ride it all. Lizzy got over her squirming about 10 miles into the ride when things started leveling out up top. Hwy 141 is about 4400' above sea level. The top of the canyon red rock plateau in that area is closer to 6000'+/-.

In Nucla we got a fresh made deli sandwich and climbed back into Jethro the Jeep to head for Montrose. While still officially on the Rim Rocker Trail, the technicality and the terrain were vastly different. That by no means diminished the value of the scenery. Wow! We just traded red rock canyons for green meadows and Aspen covered mountain tops. The average altitude for the next 53 miles was over 9000'.

Lotsa nice vistas. Pictures do them no justice. That's the road we traveled in the background.

We're actually above these Aspens

It's Spring in August at 9000 feet.

Kinda easy on the eyes!

Lizzy and I are always on the lookout for the perfect setting where the sunlight is pouring through the Aspens. We haven't found it yet, but we're still persistent. Here's a few good candidates for a spot on our wall at home.

BTW...I almost forgot. As we were riding along Hwy 141 just about sunup, we happened upon the group of critters pictured below. The large dude in the upper right is Elmer Elk. He's paying a social call on the ladies. You can see how interested they all are; they are all facing away from him. He's in hopes they will view him as a far more fatherly figure in a couple of months when nature turns the gals bit more amourous.

Poor Elmer. Can't get a smile from a single lady. Hang in there dude!

After reaching Montrose, it was time to hit the pavement once again. But...the party never ends. Why not spend the night in Paonia Colorado and wander through the Black Canyon of the Gunnison on the way there? And so they did!

Panorama allows you to see 180 degrees without turning your head.

Lotsa color

Black Canyon of the Gunnison - roadside!

Looking down the canyon.

For all you motorcycle and sport car buffs, the road around the canyon it first class. It's always a treat! Today we poked around and snapped some photos - equally as exhilirating.

Well, we've retired for the evening here in Paonia. Tomorrow bright and early we'll rise and shine and tackle the gravel road that runs from Paonia to Crested Butte. Then it's a mad dash for the "Boat" and rest  up before heading to  Highland Kansas to view the eclipse, dontchasee?

So...stay tuned!